Aaron, Noriko and Cam, another volunteer based in Wa, opted to ride on their motorbikes to the park, but Cath and I felt it was too far to go on a bike, so we took the bus. To do this we had to go and stay in Wa at Cam’s house the night before, as the bus would leave at 6.00am. Unfortunately the tickets were sold out the day before, and there is only one bus. All we could do was queue up at about 5.30am and hope for standing room. Luckily, after much jostling, we finally made it onto the bus, knowing we would be standing for about 3 hours, and that just under half of the journey would be on a very rough road.
Indeed, the journey rattled our bones, but we made good time and arrived in Larabanga, just outside the park at around 9am. Here we were met by two young men who lived in the village and wanted to act as tour guides for us. At first we were suspicious of them, but it soon became clear that they genuinely wanted to help us (for a tip of course!). We knew we needed to wait for the other three on their motorbikes so it seemed a good time for breakfast. The guides didn’t let us down and soon enough we were eating omelette sandwiches and drinking mugs of tea and coffee. Aaron, Noriko and Cam arrived just as we were finishing. They decided to push on ahead for the last 6km to the park, and then come back and collect us.
This gave us time to be given a tour of the local mosque and sign the visitors’ book, before touring the house and working place of one of the guides. This young man had set up a small school for girls in his backyard and was using a wall which had been burned by his cooking fire as his blackboard. Several volunteers apparently arrive from time to time, and we were shown the living quarters he was building for them. The whole set-up was very enterprising, and he said he was doing it to give something back to his community. We felt very moved and gave him a donation towards the project.
The motorbikes soon arrived back and Cath & I took our lifts to the park, where we found our lovely hotel. Coincidentally two other volunteers who we already knew had been staying there for the few days before, so we spent some time catching up with them. The view over the watering holes was amazing! Also there was a swimming pool! This was very exciting because despite the very hot climate there aren’t any swimming pools in northern Ghana. We couldn’t wait to get in and cool down!
First we needed to move into our room. Cath, Noriko and I shared a room, and Aaron and Cam shared another. As we were opening our door we noticed through the window that there was a large baboon in the room next door. It had come in through their open patio door and was rummaging through some food and drink and grabbing as much as it could! We raised the alarm but too late – the baboon had run off with armfuls of goodies for his family...
As well as the view and the pool there was a western-style restaurant so we planned to eat there on our second evening. Meanwhile, baboons wandered around the pool area and elephants roamed around the watering holes – a truly amazing sight and a relaxing atmosphere. We spent the afternoon swimming, resting and chatting, and despite our sunscreen every one of us was sunburned. We should have known better but have become used to not being burned because we are usually covered up for work, and more often than not we are inside.
Later in the afternoon we wandered over to the staff canteen which we had been told was cheaper than the restaurant and served good Ghanaian food. The rumour was true so we stopped for drink and to order dinner for later. As we sat and chatted with other travellers a family of warthogs arrived and began to wander around the seating areas. There were several babies too and we loved watching them, trying to work out what sort of animals they most resembled. They seem to be a cross between a pig and a small horse, and often to reach the ground for food they would actually kneel down.
Later that evening after dinner we had a diving competition in the pool. This was hilarious, and the boys tried every combination of joint diving they could think of for us to mark out of ten. We couldn’t stay out of the pool because it was such a luxury and for once we actually felt cool.
Next morning – my birthday - we were up at 6.30 so that we could start our early morning hike. This was a walk through the forest and savannah looking for various animals, but primarily for elephants. We saw antelope and birds, and even stood in large elephant footprints, but it was quite a long time before we actually saw elephants. When we did it was really worth it. A small family group was gathered in a watering hole, wallowing and gently moving through the water together.
Walking on, we found another group at another watering hole, and as we sat watching them the guide suddenly alerted us to move away as the bull elephant was approaching. The bull elephant can be quite dangerous if it feels threatened and can charge so it was best to be safe. He ambled slowly and kept an eye on us, before walking straight through the place where we had been sitting and into the water. A magnificent sight.
On returning to the hotel we had a good breakfast and I called my family, describing the scene. The rest of the day was spent much the same as yesterday, except we were much more respectful of the sun, and stayed covered up and in the shade. The baboons, elephants and warthogs continued to keep us entertained, as did the many tourists and Ghanaians we met.
Eating in the western restaurant was a fitting end to my birthday! We all ordered a variety of western food, but most especially French fries, and it was delicious! Sadly the cheeseburger did not live up to expectations. In the picture on the menu it looked like a normal cheeseburger, but in reality it was a hunk of dry minced meat (not sure what type) in two small slices of bread, with some Dairylea kind of cheese. It is impossible to get real cheese in northern Ghana because it is not made here, and it is difficult to transport from other places.
Next day we were up again at 6am as Cath and I needed to catch the bus in Larabanga. There is only the one bus, and it travels through the village sometime between 8 and 9am, so we needed to be there promptly. Once they had dropped us off, Aaron, Noriko and Cam made their way on their motorbikes to Wa. Sadly, when the bus finally arrived around 9.20 it didn’t stop because it was full. We weren’t sure what we would do next, but our donation to the young guide two days before paid off. He said he would ensure we got back to Wa that day. First he tried to negotiate for us to get a pillion ride to a nearby small town where we could try to catch a tro-tro (small minibus) which might or might not be full. We turned that option down on the grounds of cost and sat down to wait.
About an hour later there was sudden movement as the two guides spotted and flagged down a car for us. Not only was the Ghanaian driver going all the way to Jirapa, but there were also spaces for two passengers. We hopped in alongside another passenger and got chatting on the bumpy journey. The driver, Kuufaa, turned out to work for the Education Service so we had plenty to talk about, and he said he made the journey regularly. Today he was going to drop in on his father’s family, and did we mind waiting while he caught up with them? Of course we didn’t mind and when we arrived at his village the family were so welcoming and friendly. They spoke little English, and we attempted some Dagaare, but mainly everyone just smiled. Over the next hour the whole family gathered as we were given pito to drink and treated to a lunch of TZ and spicy leaves. The food was delicious.
Lastly we visited the market. Kuufaa asked if we wanted meat. Cath said that she was a vegetarian and an instinct told me to pretend I was too. My instinct was not wrong! They took us to the back of the market where there was a large carcass which was being chopped up, while the lungs were cooking on the open fire. If I had said I ate meat I would have felt obliged to buy some, so I was relieved not to have to!
Finally we arrived back in Wa about 2.30pm where we stopped to pick up Cath’s motorbike for the last leg of our journey back to Jirapa. Once we had eaten at the Sisters’ Convent (the only place resembling a restaurant in Jirapa) we arrived home exhausted. Later that evening Kuufaa called us to check we were home safely! Cath said that’s the thing with living here.... Just when you think it’s hopeless and how on earth are you going to solve this problem, something happens to restore your faith, and remind you – this is Ghana!
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